Your imported Skyline is now over thirty years old. That isn’t a problem in itself — these cars were built well — but every rubber seal, every electrical connector and every wear item on your car has been aging since the Berlin Wall came down.
This guide covers the faults that owners report most often, in plain language. For each one you’ll find what you’d notice while driving, what you can safely check yourself, what happens if you leave it, and the genuine parts that fix it properly.
A word on how we choose parts. We look for genuine Nissan components first, and parts from the suppliers Nissan itself used — Hitachi, Calsonic, Denso, NGK — sit alongside genuine as the correct-specification standard. That’s still where we start on every part in this guide.
Here’s the honest complication. These cars are over thirty years old, and for several of the parts that wear out most often — the fuel pump, the radiator, brakes, the clutch — new genuine stock has largely run out. What’s actually available to buy is used genuine, a genuine part for a different, later model that looks similar but doesn’t fit, or aftermarket. We checked each one properly rather than assuming, and where genuine isn’t realistically available, we say so plainly and point you to an aftermarket option from a brand with a real track record, rather than leaving you with nothing or pretending genuine is an option it isn’t.
A word on what we’re not. We’re a car and parts resource, not a workshop. Where a fault needs proper diagnosis, we say so. Buying the wrong part because you guessed is more expensive than an hour of a mechanic’s time.
Two eBay sites, two currencies — worth reading before you click. Genuine Nissan parts turn up far more reliably on eBay’s US site, where the specialist Nissan dealers and Japanese exporters list. Aftermarket parts are better bought on eBay Australia, where brands like DBA, Protex, SuperPro and Exedy hold local stock — cheaper and faster than importing. So the links below deliberately point at different sites depending on the part:
- Links marked “on eBay US” show prices in USD and ship internationally. Budget for conversion, freight and any import charges on top of the listed figure.
- Links marked “on eBay Australia” show prices in AUD and usually ship domestically.
Don’t compare a USD figure against an AUD one directly — by the time freight lands, a cheaper-looking US price often isn’t.
Disclosure: this page contains affiliate links. If you buy through them we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t change what we recommend: we start from genuine every time, and only point to aftermarket where we’ve confirmed genuine isn’t realistically available — not because aftermarket pays better.
First, know what you’re looking at
Skyline model codes tell you which engine you have, and that determines which parts fit. Check the plate in your engine bay.
| Code | Model | Engine |
|---|---|---|
| HR32 / HCR32 | R32 GTS / GTS-T | RB20DE / RB20DET (2.0L, turbo on GTS-T) |
| BNR32 | R32 GT-R | RB26DETT (2.6L twin-turbo) |
| ECR33 | R33 GTS25t | RB25DET (2.5L turbo) |
| BCNR33 | R33 GT-R | RB26DETT (2.6L twin-turbo) |
When ordering parts, always quote your chassis code and build year. Nissan made running changes mid-production, and a part listed for “R33” may not fit an early car.
Fault 1: Rough idle, misfiring, or stalling
What you’d notice: The engine hunts up and down at idle instead of sitting steady. It stumbles under acceleration, or occasionally cuts out entirely. It’s often worse when the engine is hot.
The usual cause: Failed ignition coil packs. This is the single most frequently reported fault across RB20, RB25 and RB26 engines. The six individual coil packs and their harness sit in the hot valley between the cam covers, where decades of heat cycles crack the coil boots, embrittle the harness insulation and corrode the crimped terminals. Owner forums are full of this one — long-term R32 owners routinely list coil packs as the expected age-related failure.
What you can check yourself:
- Open the bonnet with the engine idling and listen for a faint, rapid ticking or snapping from the top of the engine — that’s spark escaping a cracked coil boot
- In a dark garage, look for faint blue arcing across the top of the engine while it idles
- With the engine off and cool, remove the coil cover and inspect each coil for cracks, splits or scorch marks on the rubber boots. If the cover is held by anything other than obvious bolts, or you’re unsure, skip this step rather than force it
If you ignore it: Misfiring dumps unburnt fuel into the exhaust, which destroys the catalytic converter. A coil replacement is a few hundred dollars in parts; a coil replacement plus a catalytic converter is a different conversation. Persistent misfire under boost can also cause detonation damage.
When to see a mechanic: If the coils look visually fine, stop and get it diagnosed. Ignition harness faults and crank angle sensor problems produce very similar symptoms, and replacing coils won’t fix either. A proper diagnosis costs far less than a wasted set of coils.
The genuine fix. Genuine Nissan coil packs — manufactured by Hitachi, Nissan’s original supplier — are the correct-specification part. Replace all six as a set; if one has aged out, the others are close behind.
Genuine coils are still available, but you have to search for them specifically. Most listings that come up are either the R34’s later “NEO” coil (part number 22448-AA100 — a different, incompatible part despite looking similar) or aftermarket units with “OEM spec” in the title. Genuine new-old-stock coils under part number 22448-25U00 do exist, including sellers holding Australian stock — but they cover a narrower range of chassis than the listings suggest.
Read the seller’s own description, not eBay’s compatibility table. eBay’s table is auto-generated from third-party data and gets this wrong. On one listing we checked, the table claimed 104 compatible vehicles including 1989–1993 R32s — but the seller’s own description lists only R33 Series 2 (1995–98) onward, along with R34 GT-R, Stagea, Laurel and Cedric, and specifies “models with ignitor built into coil / 3 mounting holes”. That’s a physical and electrical specification, not a formality.
What this means in practice:
| Your car | Genuine 22448-25U00 |
|---|---|
| R33 Series 2 (1995–98), ECR33 / ER33 / ENR33 | Fits |
| R33 Series 1 (1993–95) | Not listed — verify with the seller |
| R32 (all variants, RB20DE / RB20DET / RB25DE / RB26DETT) | Does not fit |
R32 owners: the coil design differs and you’ll need to source by your own part number or go aftermarket. Don’t rely on a listing title that mentions “R32” — check what the seller actually wrote.
Search genuine Nissan coil packs (22448-25U00) on eBay US
If genuine isn’t available for your specific chassis, SWAN is a widely listed aftermarket brand marketed as OEM-spec. It isn’t a genuine Nissan or Hitachi part; treat it as you would any aftermarket electrical component and check the seller’s warranty terms.
Search SWAN ignition coils for R32/R33 on eBay Australia
Spark plugs: search by part number, not by car
Genuine NGK plugs for RB engines are readily available — the trick is that searching “NGK spark plugs Skyline” returns plugs for Patrols and Pathfinders, while searching the part number returns exactly what you want. The RB20DE/DET, RB25DE/DET and RB26DETT all take the same plug type in different heat ranges, sold in sets of six.
Get the heat range right — this matters more than the brand. A colder plug than your engine needs will foul and misfire, which is the exact symptom you’re trying to fix:
| Your engine’s state | Heat range | NGK part |
|---|---|---|
| Stock or near-stock road car | 6 | BCPR6ES |
| Around 300–400hp | 6 | BCPR6ES |
| 500hp and up | 7 | BCPR7ES |
Gap is 0.9mm as supplied; many workshops close it slightly (around 0.8mm) on boosted engines. If your car is stock, buy the 6, not the 7 — plenty of listings push the 7 as the “performance” option, and on a standard engine a plug that cold will foul.
Search NGK BCPR6ES plugs (stock heat range) on eBay US
Search NGK BCPR7ES plugs (high-power builds) on eBay US
Spark plugs — the aftermarket option. Performance-branded plugs listed specifically for RB20DET/RB25DET/RB26DETT are a reasonable stand-in for a stock, road-driven car. Confirm the heat range matches your engine’s original specification before buying — a plug with the wrong heat range is worse than an old one.
Fault 2: Vague, wandering steering at the rear
What you’d notice: The back of the car feels unsettled at highway speed, as though it’s steering itself slightly. You may also find a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the rear of the car, or see 4WD/ABS warning lights.
The usual cause: A failing HICAS four-wheel-steering system. Every performance Skyline of this era has it — hydraulic on the R32, an electric rack on the R33 and R34. With age the rear rack seals leak, solenoids and the rear toe-control hardware fail, and the system’s rear ball joints wear, introducing that vague, wandering rear-end feel.
What you can check yourself:
- Look under the rear of the car for fluid weeping around the rear steering rack
- With the car parked, have someone turn the steering wheel while you watch the rear wheels — they should make a small movement in response
- Note whether your ABS or 4WD warning lights have come on
If you ignore it: Unpredictable rear steering at speed is a genuine safety problem, not a comfort complaint. A leaking rack also loses fluid, which can damage the pump.
When to see a mechanic: This one needs professional diagnosis. The system is troublesome enough that deleting it with a lock-bar kit has become the accepted community fix, though a botched delete lights the 4WD and ABS warning lamps. There’s a real decision to make here — genuine repair versus lock-bar delete — and it affects handling, roadworthiness and resale value. Talk to someone who knows these cars before committing either way. Also check your own state’s rules before deciding. Requirements for modifying a steering system differ between states and territories, and what passes inspection in one state may not in another — including if you later move interstate. Confirm with your state or territory road authority, not a forum.
The genuine fix: Genuine Nissan HICAS rack seals, solenoids and rear toe-control components are the correct route if you’re keeping the system. Because the repair scope varies so much with what’s actually failed, order parts only after diagnosis.
Fault 3: Sudden loss of boost, or a whining, rattling turbo
What you’d notice: Boost drops off or disappears entirely. You may hear a metallic rattle or an unusual whine from the turbo, or see blue smoke.
The usual cause: A shattered ceramic turbine wheel. The factory turbos — twin on the GT-R, single on the RB20DET GTS-T and RB25DET GTS25t — use lightweight ceramic exhaust wheels for fast spool, but the brittle ceramic shears off the shaft with age, heat cycles, detonation, rev-limiter hits, or boost much above the stock levels.
What you can check yourself:
- Check for oil in the intake piping and intercooler pipework — a visual check that needs no disassembly
- Listen for a change in the turbo’s note: a rattle or a siren-like whine that wasn’t there before
Some guides suggest removing the intake pipe to feel the compressor wheel by hand. We’d rather you didn’t. A small amount of shaft play is normal and a lot is not, and knowing the difference takes experience — you risk either a false alarm or, worse, false reassurance. Touching the wheel can also damage it. Leave this one to a workshop.
If you ignore it: When a ceramic wheel breaks up, fragments go through the exhaust. If the compressor side fails, debris goes into the engine. Repairs in this category typically run into the thousands, which is why catching it early matters.
When to see a mechanic: Almost immediately. Turbo diagnosis needs measurement, not guesswork, and continuing to drive a failing turbo risks the engine.
The genuine fix: Genuine Nissan turbochargers for these chassis are increasingly difficult to source new — availability is genuinely limited and varies month to month. Where a genuine unit is available it remains the correct-specification part. Note that this is one area where many owners move away from the factory ceramic design deliberately; if that’s the path you take, it’s a decision to make with a specialist rather than from a parts list.
Fault 4: Low oil pressure or a knock from the bottom end (RB26 / GT-R only)
What you’d notice: Oil pressure reading lower than usual, particularly when hot. A knocking sound from low in the engine. In the worst case, sudden engine failure.
The usual cause: The RB26’s factory oil pump drive is a known weak point. On R32 and R33 RB26 engines, a weak factory oil pump drive is reported as a cause of low oil pressure, knocking, or sudden engine failure — this is one of the best-documented vulnerabilities of the engine.
What you can check yourself:
- Watch your oil pressure gauge — know what’s normal for your car when cold and hot, so a drop is obvious
- Check oil level and condition regularly; metallic glitter in the oil is a stop-driving signal
- Ask for the service history: has the oil pump been addressed by a previous owner?
If you ignore it: Total engine failure. This is the fault on this list with the highest consequence.
When to see a mechanic: Any suspicion of low oil pressure means stop driving and get it inspected. This is not something to diagnose by trial and error.
The genuine fix: A genuine Nissan oil pump is the correct-specification replacement. Be aware this is an area where the aftermarket exists precisely because the factory part is a known weak point — an honest guide has to tell you that. If you’re building for track use or high power, discuss it with a specialist. For a stock, road-driven car maintained with frequent oil changes and proper warm-ups, genuine parts fitted correctly are the standard route.
Fault 5: Overheating, or coolant loss with no obvious puddle
What you’d notice: Temperature creeping up in traffic or on a hot day. Coolant level dropping. A sweet smell after driving.
The usual cause: Perished hoses and internally corroded radiators. This is where Australia matters: an imported car spent its life in Japan’s climate and is now doing summers here. Perished rubber and a radiator that’s silted up internally can look completely fine from the outside. Coolant leaks toward the rear of the engine are commonly reported on these cars, and cars that sat unused before export are particularly prone to hardened, cracked hoses.
What you can check yourself:
- With the engine cold, squeeze the coolant hoses. They should feel firm but pliable — rock-hard or spongy means perished
- Look for white or coloured crust around hose clamps and joints, which marks a slow weep
- Check the coolant level in the overflow bottle weekly for a month and note whether it drops
If you ignore it: Overheating an aluminium-head engine warps heads and blows gaskets. Individual genuine hoses are inexpensive — often around $20–$30 each — which makes a full refresh of the perished ones one of the cheapest insurance policies on this list against a four-figure repair.
When to see a mechanic: If coolant disappears with no visible leak, get it pressure-tested. Coolant vanishing internally means head gasket, and that needs proper diagnosis.
The radiator. Genuine Nissan units, or Calsonic (Nissan’s factory supplier), are the correct-specification part. New genuine and Calsonic radiators for these chassis are not realistically available new — what’s listed is aftermarket aluminium units.
An aluminium aftermarket radiator generally cools better than the ageing factory unit, which is a reasonable trade-off here. Read these two constraints before you buy anything, because they catch people out:
Manual transmission only. Mishimoto’s Skyline radiators are listed for manual cars. If your car is an automatic, this part is not for you — check before ordering, because the listing title won’t always say so.
“Direct fit” depends on your model. Mishimoto sells two separate part numbers, and they are not interchangeable:
| Your car | Part | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| R32 (1989–94), RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT | MMRAD-RHD-R32 | Two-row, 1.25″ core. Direct fit |
| R33 (1993–98), RB25DET | MMRAD-RHD-R33 | Three-row, 1.57″ core. Direct fit |
| R33 GT-R (RB26DETT) | MMRAD-RHD-R33 | Modification required — not a bolt-in |
That last row matters. A listing can say “R33 GT-R” and be accurate while still needing fabrication to fit. If you have a BCNR33 and want a bolt-in, ask the seller specifically what’s involved before buying.
With those checked, Mishimoto is the brand with an established track record on these cars:
Search Mishimoto radiators for R32/R33 on eBay Australia
Cheaper unbranded aluminium radiators are widely listed for these cars as well, often at half the price. We haven’t been able to verify their fitment claims against any independent source, which isn’t the same as saying they’re bad — it means you’re relying on the seller’s word. If you go that way, check the core dimensions against your car rather than trusting the title.
Browse aluminium radiators for R32/R33 on eBay Australia
Coolant hoses, thermostat and water pump are a different story — genuine is realistically available:
- Genuine Nissan coolant hoses — Nissan supplies these individually by part number rather than as a kit, so you’ll be ordering hose by hose. Aim to replace all the perished ones in one go rather than chasing leaks one at a time, and write down each part number as you identify it. Note that hose part numbers are engine-specific, not chassis-specific: the commonly listed 14055-05U11, for example, is the front connector hose for the RB26DETT and fits GT-R models only — an RB20 or RB25 car takes different numbers entirely. Get your numbers from a parts catalogue for your engine before you start ordering
- Genuine Nissan thermostat
Search genuine Nissan thermostats for RB engines on eBay US
- Genuine water pump — if you’re due a timing belt, do the water pump at the same time (see below). Part number depends on your chassis: R32 GT-R takes 21010-58S25, while R33 onward takes 21010-21U26. There is also a third pump, the N1 (21010-24U27), with a six-blade impeller — that’s the R34 GT-R N1 engine part, not the factory pump for your car. It moves more coolant at high rpm, which is genuinely useful on a tracked car and pointless on a standard one. It’s also been discontinued by Nissan and moved to the NISMO Heritage programme (21010-RHR30), so it costs accordingly. For a road car, buy the standard pump for your chassis
Search genuine water pump 21010-58S25 (R32 GT-R) on eBay US
Search genuine water pump 21010-21U26 (R33 onward) on eBay US
Browse genuine Nissan water hoses for Skyline on eBay US — check each listing against your engine code, not just “R32/R33”
Fault 6: The timing belt nobody has checked (all RB engines)
What you’d notice: Often nothing at all. Sometimes a rattle or a warning light. A worn belt or tensioner shows up as a rattling sound or engine warning light on RB25 and RB26 engines.
The usual cause: Time. Timing belts have a service interval measured in years as well as kilometres, and an imported car’s belt history is frequently unknown.
What you can check yourself:
- Look for a service sticker in the engine bay — many workshops date-stamp belt changes
- Ask the importer or previous owner for documentation
- If nobody can tell you when it was last done, assume it hasn’t been
If you ignore it: RB engines are interference designs. A snapped belt means pistons meet valves and the engine is destroyed. This applies to the RB26 as well — it is belt-driven, not chain-driven — and to naturally aspirated RB20DE cars. This is the least dramatic-sounding item on this list and the one most likely to end your ownership.
When to see a mechanic: For the job itself. Belt replacement requires correct tensioning and timing alignment; this isn’t a first-time DIY job.
The genuine fix:
- Genuine Nissan timing belt and tensioner set
- Genuine water pump, replaced at the same time — the labour overlaps almost entirely, so doing it separately means paying twice
- Genuine front crank, rear crank and cam seals while everything is apart — these are a few dollars each and the labour to reach them is already paid for
Search genuine Nissan crank and cam seals on eBay US
Search genuine Nissan timing belt kits on eBay US
If your car’s belt history is unknown, treat this as the first job you do — before any of the others on this list.
Fault 7: Rust (and where it hides)
What you’d notice: Bubbling paint, or nothing at all until you look properly.
The usual cause: Thirty years, plus wherever dirt has been trapped against metal. Experienced owners consistently warn that bodywork condition matters more than mechanical condition — a replacement engine is affordable, but replacing rotten metal gets expensive very quickly. The rear wheel arches are the worst area, and cars with side skirts fitted need a careful inspection underneath, since dirt collects there and rots them out.
What you can check yourself:
- Run your hand along the inside lip of both rear wheel arches
- If the car has side skirts, look behind and under them with a torch
- Check the boot floor under the carpet and the spare wheel well
- Press gently on any bubbled paint — if it gives, the metal underneath is gone
If you ignore it: Rust spreads and repair costs escalate faster than any mechanical item on this list. It also has roadworthy implications if it reaches structural areas — and what counts as a fail differs by state and territory, so check your local inspection standard rather than assuming.
When to see a mechanic: For anything structural, or anything you can’t see the full extent of. Surface rust and structural rust look similar from the outside and cost wildly different amounts to fix.
The genuine fix: This one isn’t a parts purchase — it’s bodywork, and it’s the reason a mechanically tired but rust-free car is usually a better buy than a tidy-looking car with arch rot.
Fuel pumps: genuine parts availability in detail
Ageing in-tank fuel pumps cause hesitation, hard starting and, eventually, a car that doesn’t run — a normal wear item on a car this age. Unlike the ignition coils covered above, where genuine stock does still exist if you search by part number, new genuine pump assemblies for the R32 and R33 have effectively run out: what’s listed is used genuine units, genuine Nissan pumps that actually fit a modern Altima or Maxima rather than a Skyline, or aftermarket pumps. We checked repeatedly rather than assuming, and that’s the honest position. Here are the realistic options, confirmed to fit — check fitment and specification with a workshop before fitting anything here.
Aftermarket pumps listed for these chassis. Several sellers list new pumps with the R32/R33/R34 and RB26DETT fitment stated explicitly. Most ship from Japan, so factor in delivery time and cost on top of the listed price.
Search aftermarket fuel pumps listed for R32/R33 on eBay Australia
Walbro GSS342. A widely used aftermarket in-tank pump with a long track record, and one of the few commonly stocked within Australia — which usually means faster and cheaper delivery than a Japan-shipped alternative. Three things to know before you order:
- Counterfeits are rife. Walbro themselves warn that this part has an extremely high counterfeit rate and advise buying only from authorised dealers. A cheap GSS342 on a marketplace listing is a genuine risk, and a fake fuel pump is not a cosmetic problem. Buy from a seller who can tell you where they source from, or pay more at a known distributor.
- It’s a universal pump, not a drop-in. It needs a vehicle-specific install kit to fit a Skyline tank. Buy the kit, or have a workshop confirm what you need.
- It’s higher-flow than standard (255 L/h, rated to around 500hp), which is fine on a stock engine but more capacity than you need. It also isn’t E85-compatible. The original GSS342 has been superseded by the GSS342G3, which has a different outlet barb — check which one a listing is actually selling.
Search Walbro GSS342 fuel pumps on eBay Australia
Whatever you fit, replace the tank seal O-ring. This one is still available new and genuine (part number 17342-79900), it costs a fraction of the pump, and reusing an old one on a fuel system is a poor trade.
Search genuine Nissan fuel pump tank seal O-rings on eBay US
If you want genuine and are prepared to wait, ask a genuine-parts specialist such as Amayama to check the part number against your chassis. Availability changes, and a part that’s unavailable this year occasionally reappears.
The genuine parts you can still get easily
Most of this guide is about parts where genuine stock has run out. It’s worth saying plainly where it hasn’t, because these are the items you’ll buy most often and they’re cheap:
Oil filters. Genuine Nissan filters for the RB20/RB25 are still current and cost around USD $16 including the drain plug washer. This isn’t brand loyalty for its own sake — genuine filters have the correct anti-drainback valve specification for RB engines, which affects oil pressure on a cold start. Generic filters frequently get this wrong.
Buy by part number: 15208-H890C (or PITWORK AY100-NS007, which is Nissan’s own parts brand and the same filter). This covers the R32 RB20DET and RB26DETT, and the R33 RB25DET and RB26DETT. The R34 from late 1998 uses a different, smaller filter (15208-53J0A) — searching “Skyline oil filter” will return both, and they are not interchangeable.
Search genuine Nissan oil filter 15208-H890C on eBay US
Search PITWORK AY100-NS007 (Nissan’s own parts brand) on eBay US
Air filters. Genuine part number 16546-V0100 (also sold as AY120-NS001) fits the RB20, RB25 and RB26 across R32, R33 and R34. Still in production, cheap, and a 20,000 km item.
Search genuine Nissan air filter 16546-V0100 on eBay US
Seals, gaskets and hardware. Crank seals, cam seals, water outlet gaskets, drain plugs, washers, bolts. Individually trivial, collectively the difference between a job done properly and a job you do twice. Buy them at the same time as the big part they belong to.
Spark plugs. Covered above — genuine NGK, search by part number.
The pattern is consistent: small, high-turnover consumables are still in production; large assemblies are not. Plan your genuine buying around that rather than hoping a radiator turns up.
Where to buy parts in Australia
eBay Australia — the most practical starting point, with two traps worth knowing about.
First, the word “Genuine” in a listing title doesn’t always mean genuine Nissan. “Genuine Walbro” means a real Walbro pump — a quality aftermarket part, but not a factory component. Read it as “authentic example of whatever brand follows”, not as “OEM”.
Second, eBay’s search will quietly ignore your chassis terms. Searching “Nissan genuine fuel pump Skyline R32 R33” returns genuine Nissan pumps that fit a 2013 Altima, because the listing matched “Nissan”, “genuine” and “fuel pump” and the rest was discarded.
Third — and this one caught us out — eBay’s compatibility table is not authoritative. It’s auto-generated from third-party data and can be wrong. On a genuine coil listing we checked, the table claimed 104 compatible vehicles including 1989–1993 R32s, while the seller’s own description limited it to R33 Series 2 onward. The seller’s written description wins. Read it, and if the two disagree, message the seller before spending money.
Filter for “Genuine Nissan” or the original supplier’s name (Hitachi, Calsonic, NGK, Denso), tick the New condition filter unless you specifically want used, check the seller’s feedback, and confirm the part number against your chassis code.
Amazon Australia — useful for the generic side of ownership (workshop consumables, tools, a trickle charger if the car isn’t driven weekly), less so for genuine RB-specific components.
Amayama — a specialist in genuine Japanese OEM parts with Australian distribution. Worth knowing about when you need a part number confirmed or something eBay doesn’t have.
Whichever route you take, always confirm the part number against your chassis code and build year before ordering.
A note on buying, rather than fixing
If you’re reading this because you’re weighing up a Skyline rather than because you already own one, the faults above are your inspection checklist. Coil packs and hoses are maintenance. A rotten rear arch, an unknown timing belt history on an interference engine, or an RB26 with no oil pump documentation are pricing conversations.
The cars worth buying are the ones where someone can answer these questions with paperwork.
Looking for the part? We track current eBay listings for RB26 and Skyline parts across Australia, the US, the UK and Germany at YOU SHOULD, SHA. Parts, and our guide to buying RB26 parts on eBay covers what to check before you pay.
The R32/R33 Skyline series
- An Australian buyer’s introduction to the R32 and R33
- Pre-purchase inspection checklist
- Common faults and the parts that fix them (this page)
- Running costs and maintenance schedule
- Odometer fraud in Japanese used cars: what you can check
This guide is general information based on widely reported owner experience, not a substitute for inspection by a qualified mechanic. Always confirm part fitment against your specific chassis code, engine code and build year before purchasing.